Wednesday, October 24, 2012

DEFINING EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR (EGF)




NEW "MIRACLE" SKIN CARE PRODUCT
In the months to come, you may be hearing a lot about a seemingly new “miracle” skin care ingredient called Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF).  EGF has been called the “single most important substance for development and maintenance of both the epidermis and dermis.”  What exactly is this substance and what makes it so effective?

Epidermal Growth Factor is a protein that catalyzes the healing process by causing epidermal and epithelial cells to divide and grow.  It is not new; it exists in our skin.  In fact, EGF is the most potent mitogenic (mitosis inducing) agent in the skin.  Skin constantly produces and utilizes Epidermal Growth Factor, but in a more pronounced way when it is damaged.  When topically applied to the skin, EGF not only increases mitosis - the process by which the body generates and replaces cells - but also synthesis of proteins.  In addition, circulation increases, collagen accumulates and more blood vessels form. 

USE of EGF
EGF is best used after facial peel/exfoliation treatments.  These procedures force the skin to produce EGF through ostensibly controlled damage of the stratum corneum, which causes the formation of new cells at a more rapid rate than normal.  Without topical application of EGF, the skin is left to heal itself through an immune system that wants to reject the peel.  This puts the skin under great stress.  Topical EGF - especially in combination with other beneficial ingredients - helps heal stress to the skin.  It functions as a balancing agent or neutralizer, helping counteract any side effects. 

Aging - in itself a stressful process - is predominantly a breakdown of the connective and elastic tissues of the skin.  As the skin ages, the connective and elastic tissues degenerate and the subcutaneous fat begins to atrophy.  Communication between the skin’s various layers begins to break down as the number of growth factors and growth factor receptors decrease.  The result is sagging skin and wrinkles.  Topical application of EGF replaces those growth factors in order to achieve immediate, visible improvement in the quality of the skin. 

EGF is also used successfully in clinical applications that include post-operative healing, scar and keloid reduction.  Medical centers in Los Angeles are currently testing on open heart surgery patients an EGF product called BioSyl, developed by Sonäge, Inc.  BioSyl uses bio-engineered EGF in combination with botanicals and other “growth promoting” ingredients such as yeast and barley in order to encourage deeper reception of these ingredients. 

Beta Glucan is a yeast protoplasm that improves the efficiency of cell division.  It is a “helper molecule, said to strengthen the immune system.  By expanding the protective coat around the cells, it delays the penetration of foreign bodies, including free radicals, into the skin.  Beta Glucan energizes while EGF builds, generating new tissue to replace older, damaged tissue.  Together they build immunity for the newly generated cells.  The combination is powerful and offers immediate results. 

Twenty million cells are created in the body every minute.  They require enormous amounts of oxygen and nutrients to do their work.  There are hundreds of different cells able to manufacture some 50,000 different proteins that control the work of all cells: collagen to build skin; insulin to control energy use; hemoglobin to supply oxygen.  Old, damaged cells self-destruct by releasing a powerful enzyme that digests the cell from within.  Normal human cells, cultured in the laboratory, divide up to 50 times before dying.  Skin is made up of the body’s largest concentration of cells, which divide actively throughout a person’s life.  Its total mass remains constant due to the continuous replacement of dead cells. 

Hormones control the rate at which cells grow, reproduce and are repaired.  Although the amount of growth hormone secreted by the pituitary gland is genetically determined, external factors such as environment (sun exposure), climate, diet, pollution, smoking and/or alcohol consumption modify our body’s natural control of cell growth. 

The stratum corneum is comprised of keratin, which is a protein.  For a cell to mature normally, it must contain certain amino acid compounds including calcium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, iodine, vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamins C and D supplied by protein. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins.  The more amino acids, the more moisture is supplied to the skin and the longer it will retain that moisture without evaporation.

The basic material of protein consists of 20 different amino acids, which are formed by combinations of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur.  The activity of the amino acids, in turn, is directed by enzymes, which accelerate bio-chemical reactions. 

Enzymes are protein molecules produced by living cells; they are the body’s catalysts. The natural turnover of skin cells must by catalyzed by either a protein or a polymer. Topical enzymes in skin care catalyze the skin’s bio-chemical process of breaking down keratin and expediting the natural shedding of this protein.  While a glycopolymer is not an enzyme per se, its action is enzymatic in that it catalyzes a natural bio-chemical process.  It “speaks” to the protein in the skin, which is polymeric, in the language of polymers.  Thus, it improves signals between cells, allowing many cells to work in concert as though it was one big cell.  This imparts greater strength and longer life to the skin. 

SELECTING AN EGF PRODUCT
When selecting an EGF product, it is important to choose one that is bio-engineered rather than animal-derived.  The polymeric structure (long chains) of a glycopolymer formula such as BioSyl allows the ingredients to enter the body through the body’s own polymeric structure.  The acidity of the ingredients is gradually released by the slow breaking down of the polymer, similar to a time release capsule.  The body slowly digests the polymer, maximizing the physiological benefits of the acid instead of being swiftly hit with a potentially dangerous free acid.  BioSyl is a laboratory culture using man-made phyto-hormones from cellulose, a carbohydrate that acts like an enzyme, promoting growth and healing. 

Glucose is the body’s major fuel, or source of energy.  The cells need sugar (energy) to produce the oxygen that releases heat.  The cells use some of the nutrients to build structural components for cell growth and replacement.  Once inside the cell, nutrients are used for one of two enterprises that take place continuously and simultaneously: catabolism, the process by which glucose or other nutrients are broken down to release energy, and anabolism, the process by which nutrients are built into new products. 

Women, in particular, can benefit from a regular regime of topical EGF because the production of EGF in the skin is androgen (male hormone) dependent, which means women produce far less than men.  That is why the passage of time generally seems more apparent on a woman’s skin than a man’s.

Another advantage of EGF is that due to its natural presence in the dermis and epidermis, it can be topically applied on a regular basis along with other skin care products without fear of sensitivity or reactivity.
An EGF night cream works best when applied to clean skin, freshly exfoliated if possible.  When used in conjunction with other creams, lotions or ointments, it should be applied first to allow unimpeded passage into the skin. 

EGF is one ingredient that truly lives up to its reputation as a growth promoter and healer.  Not only can significantly lower the risk of problems in facial peel treatments, but there is also clinical evidence that it can stimulate dermal repair of wounds and scarring at donor sites and from partial thickness burns or chronic skin ulcers.
Clearly, EGF is a powerful ingredient with enormous potential for the skin care industry.  Though the ingredient itself is not new, current bio-engineering capabilities put it at the cutting edge of skin care science.

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